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No flushing the toilet paper. This one really blows their minds. It’s true: we don’t flush the toilet paper, we fold it and put it in the (covered) bin next to the toilet. Yes, even when it’s #2. I never questioned the “whys” behind this cardinal rule, but fortunately Yucatan Living did the research for me in this article. As gross as this initially was to my US-formed brain, I quickly got used to it and now don’t even think twice about it. The only difference it makes is that you take out the trash in your bathroom a LOT. The only time this custom embarrasses me is when I’m back in the States and forget that it’s ok to flush TP there, so my host’s bathroom bin quickly fills up. It usually takes me about a week to remember, and by then I’m on my way back to Mexico.
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We don’t drink the tap water. Again, I’ve never done any research on this, just took the rule for what it was. Water is stored here in subterranean tanks, with heavy cement covers over them, then water is pumped up to the roof to fill a tank called a tinaco, which is then pumped into your house. Sometimes you can see little flecks of black, but most of the time, the water looks just fine, although it’s still not potable. We shower with it, brush our teeth, and wash dishes with it. If you boil it, it’s fine, and in a pinch I’ve used it for pasta with no ill effects. But in general, we drink and cook with bottled, purified water only. We soak veggies in a solution of tap water/sanitizing drops. In four years, I’ve had to be treated for amoebas/parasites only once, which is a pretty good record, especially for someone with a history of stomach issues. It might sound funny, but now I usually only get sick when I go to the US.
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Virtually no postal service. This one took me a couple of years to get over. No cards, letters, bills, junk mail, magazines, packages, NOTHING. My grandparents have sent me Christmas cards that will never arrive (go ahead and cancel that 5 usd check, Grandpa!). The Mexican Postal Service is notoriously HORRIBLE and when sending something, you know it’s a crapshoot. Send 10 postcards if you want 2 to make it. Don’t send anything you would mind losing. Don’t order anything online. Don’t rely on bills coming before you pay them or before you know it, you’ll be sitting in the dark with no water and no satellite. I read awhile back that the Mexican government has hired the US Postal Service to come here to retrain the postal staff and modernize the entire operation, but since I’m living way down in the boonies of Quintana Roo (the last state to be added to Mexico), I’m sure it will be YEARS before we see any improvement. And even longer before any of us let our guards down and actually use the postal service for anything we care about.
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We wait in line to pay bills. Another thing that really floored me when I first moved here, but now is de rigeur. When the water bill is due, you go to the water company, wait in line, and pay your bill. When the electric bill is due, you go to the electric company, wait in line, and pay the bill. When the phone bill is due, you go to the phone company, wait in line…are you catching on? Now imagine this for every bill you have to pay and calculate the amount of time this takes up each month, bearing in mind that there will be many others whose bills are due on the same day as yours, so you’ll definitely not be the only one in line. Also, since (as I’ve already told you) postal service is non-existent, you won’t even have a copy of the current bill, so you have to guess as to how much the bill will be and hope the money you’ve brought will be enough to cover it, or else you’re going to have to come back and get in line again. This is one of the things I will always hate about living here, but fortunately, now that my business requires the payment of my client’s bills, my assistant takes care of them all at once (and mine, too).
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Having hot water is still listed as an amenity in some hotel/apartment listings. I don’t think I need to elaborate on this one.
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Ovens are not a given. I am one of a handful of people I know here who have an oven, and I have one only because our house came unfurnished (unfurnished here typically means “no appliances” either) and I insisted on buying one. Our second apartment had a tiny two-burner stovetop set into the counter until I begged the landlady so piteously that she put in a small range/oven combo. I don’t know if it’s the heat or the money factor that so few people have ovens, probably a combination of both. Can’t live without my oven, how on earth can one make mom casseroles without an oven?
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Safety regulations are negotiable. Or they don’t even exist in the first place. Seatbelts, car seats, helmets, hard hats on construction sites, you name it. Here in Playa, the seatbelt and helmet laws are enforced fairly well (if only to help the poorly-paid police officer get his “mordida” or “little bite” of the offender’s bribe to get out of the ticket), but you’ll still see families of four on scooters, with the baby hanging off mom’s arm and junior standing up on the running board in front of dad, who’s driving. I see VERY few families putting their kids in car seats. There must not be an OSHA here, either, since on the construction sites you see men with bare heads and flip flops, climbing up a rickety ladder made from scrap wood and nails, carrying two bags of concrete over one shoulder. Or watch them, maskless, breathing in all the limestone dust. Man, you wouldn’t believe how rattletrap some of the scaffolding looks on these sites. It seems to me that many of the young men who are now building Playa del Carmen will not have very long lives.
These are all the things I can think of right now. When I first moved here, I made the mistake of not recording the things I found unusual and now they’re no longer unusual. The effacement of my memory has been so powerful that now when I go back the US, I’m struck by the thousands of things I think are strange there.
June 7, 2008 at 11:59 am
I can’t believe how riled up some people get about the TP thing. It just isn’t that big a deal to me, we never put paper in the toilet and we do not live in a miasma of smell nor have we gotten the plague.
Also, I paid my electric at Chedraui the other day when I was checking out but, you’re right, you have to know how much to pay or have a bill. I wanted to use one of those nifty machines at the front of the Soriana mall but I was afraid they’d eat my money. I read that someone put a $500 bill in and the machine just burped and went on, no credit, no refund. Wait… that sounds like Telebodega!
My biggest missing link is the postal service thing. I love shopping online and I can’t, hate that.
Is it odd that I’m thinking of taking out my stove and just having a 2 burner stove top? I would like one of those combo microwave/convection things for baking.
June 7, 2008 at 12:08 pm
VERY interesting,Heather…how long did it take you to take it as “normal living?”…that goes to show what ALL we take for granted here..great blog…thanks.
June 7, 2008 at 1:20 pm
For me I think the gas thing is a strange phenomenon! When you run out of gas for your hot water heater and your stove you have to listen for the Pavlovian Response Inducing song of the gas truck “A viene zeta gas” (I think that is what they are saying). Sometimes you hear it blocks away as you run crazily around your neighborhood trying to figure out where the gas truck is. If you miss it you have to drive into the middle of the jungle right by the jail in order to get your gas filled, and this can take many, many hours out of your day. On one hand these things drive me nuts some times, but on the other, you are solely responsible for all of your own %*#@! Great blog!
June 7, 2008 at 2:04 pm
Jonna: Yeah, I’m afraid of those automated payment machines, although I have used the CFE one several times successfully. As for the convection/microwave thing, we don’t have any counter space. And I can’t cook a turkey in one of those! Seriously, I use my oven far too much to live without it.
NORGRETS: I don’t know how long it took, not too long. People are adaptable.
Sara: Oy, I totally FORGOT about how weird the cooking/hot water gas bottle thing is…see how fast we get used to it? Yeah, is strange to have that to worry about. In my life up until this point, you just turn on the burner and *poof* fire comes out, and it NEVER runs out. Michael and I were talking about how the gas ALWAYS runs out on a Sunday (when there is no hope of getting a replacement bottle). The one time in the last 4 years where it DIDN’T run out on a Sunday was on Thanksgiving day, when I was supposed to be over at your house in a matter of hours with some side dishes. *sigh* The things we signed up for when we moved here, that we didn’t even realize we were signing up for. I guess it’s like that saying about having kids: if you knew how much work it was gonna be from the beginning, you might have never had them in the first place.
June 7, 2008 at 3:49 pm
This is a great post! And soooo true! I’ve lived here for almost seven years (in Merida) and yes, have forgotten about some of those things. I LOVE not getting junk mail. We ALWAYS run out of gas late at night or on a Sunday. Now we have an assistant pay our bills (or we do it online, a new development in Mexico which is very welcomed). And we lived without a stove for six years. I think ANTS is another thing. I used to freak out when there were ants in the house. Now I just figure out what they are after, get rid of it and trust the ants will be gone in a few hours…ants are just a part of life here.
June 7, 2008 at 6:15 pm
That’s really funny about the ants. When Adam and I stayed in Playa for 10 days we left fruit out one night and then next morning hundreds (seemingly)of ants appeared. We tossed the fruit and didn’t see a single ant the next day. They be smart.
The TP thing, funny at first, but then it ended up making more sense than flushing it somehow. Most bathrooms were perfectly fine, the few really bad ones were gross for a variety of reasons, not necessarily the TP.
June 7, 2008 at 6:52 pm
I hate that I can’t send you things in the mail. I love that you are so badass that you have adapted easily to this very different way of life.
June 7, 2008 at 11:48 pm
I guess we got used to being in Mexico before we even arrived. Living in the trailer we ALWAYS put paper in the garbage so there was no learning curve when we got here. We also never got mail (well, once a month or so, depending on whether or not we were in Mexico) so we were well used to not having mail.
Like Jonna, I do miss ordering from Amazon. The other thing we REALLY miss are good libraries.
Oh and Playa REALLY has their laterals screwed up. I’ve never been to any Mexican town where left turns are made from the inner lane! They are ALWAYS made from the lateral. You NEVER turn left from the inner lane. STILL makes me shake my head at the insanity. Maybe it is all of freaky QRoo as Cancun does the same craziness but by the time you hit the laterals in Cun, you shouldn’t be a cargo vehicle anyway. I watched a semi take a left turn from the lateral at the carretera and Juarez the other day. All the inner lane cars were honking their horns crazily and the transito (who is always playing with the semaforos) was blowing his whistle insanely. It was the only sane lane for the semi to do his U-turn in.
June 7, 2008 at 11:49 pm
Ellen - I saw an ant farm at Mega the other day and had to laugh at the absurdity. What yucatanean child would need an ANT farm???
June 8, 2008 at 3:00 am
Everything on your list were things I had always taken for granted until Hubby’s first visit to Mexico. He was awed by this stuff and many more which honestly I hadn’t even thought about.
I can say that the mail postal system is getting better (or at least trying to). I send letters and postcards to my family whenever I travel and they always seem to get them. I know my mom does shop online but it’s still a flip of the coin when it’s about getting your bills delivered on time.
It’s true that after a while you get used to the quircky things in your adopted country that you no longer take them to be quircky. The same thing is happening to me and it’s a shame because I remember my first year in Paris thinking EVERYTHING was so different and strange and now I don’t feel that effect of surprise anymore. I too wish I had started blogging on that first year. I’m sure my take on France would have be such that reading about it 6 years later would have been really interesting.
Fned.
Oh, and BTW, hubby calls the TP issue, the “bolsa de caca” issue. LOL.
June 8, 2008 at 9:53 am
Hi. Hope you don’t mind but I have to send your current blog to most of my friends. I love it!
However, I do pay electric and cable bills at XoXo. It’s 6 pesos surcharge it’s worth it. The lines are much shorter! Not sure about water or gas b/c mines included in the rent.
Also, H, I was going to call you but realize I don’t have your number! Email me if you can. I’d like to take you out for drinks this week if you are free one night!
June 8, 2008 at 11:00 am
Here in Mazatlan I have had good luck ordering books from Amazon, takes about two weeks but it is $5 per book in duty! I sent a gift (of books) to our son in Mexico City and he got it in a little over a week. Amate Books also ships within Mexico.
I’ve received a number of pieces of mail here, postman stands outside blowing his whistle. I’ve mailed from here a few times and things have gotten to their destination just fine.
All our bills are delivered through our front gate, but not by the mail. We pay most of them at the grocery store when we’re buying our groceries and the Luz at a little tienda near our spanish class. Megacable we walk over and pay, only because we don’t have a Mexican credit card, (we have a debit card) if we had one we could pay online.
In the States we never had the exterminator come…here we have them come every three months.
I’m amazed at the number of things that are offered for sale door to door. Pastries, Palm trees, dirt, water, gas, corn desserts, Jehovah, tickets to breakfast, and knife sharpening, just to name a few.
Another adjustment for me was my “stock up” syndrome. Cans will rust if you buy too many. Vegetables and fruits - buy what you need for today and tomorrow. Tortillas? Go every day.
June 8, 2008 at 2:05 pm
Since we’ve had such an influx of creatures lately, I can tell you for sure, it would have totally freaked me out to find a crab, a scorpion, and a dead bat in my stuff in the states, all in one 24-hr period. Here, I just shrug it off, mostly, after some scream/shudder combo.
I think the toilet paper thing has actually prevented at least one stateside friend from visiting me. When I go back to the states I have marathon paper-flushing sessions when I realize I’ve been tossing them in the trash. Picking each one up by a corner and tossing it in, then flushing them, so no one sees the Mexican-ness of my ways.
And another thing that stateside friends don’t get is when I complain about not having some random thing, they don’t understand why I just don’t go out and get one. Well, duh, it just ain’t that easy down here! We’re miles beyond what it was when I moved here 4 years ago, but still nowhere near the “stuff” convenience of the US.
I still wouldn’t trade it for anything though.
June 8, 2008 at 4:45 pm
Holy crap, I got a comment from Working Gringa! She’s, like, famous. I know that some of the companies have started online payment options, but I’ve been afraid to try it. Living here has made me a bit of a Luddite in some ways, I’m afraid. Do you have to use a credit card or can it be paid with a transfer from your bank to the company? I only have a debit card, they won’t allow it to be used online.
Martina: Yeah, the ants. They come and go, but you sure can’t leave any food out, ever.
KT: I hate that you can’t send me things, too! I can only imagine the awesome stuff you’d send. Oh well, I will be sending myself to you in a couple of months.
Kathy: Oh yes, libraries. I could kick myself for how much I took them for granted. If I moved back to Chicago now, I would be at the library practically daily. I swear.
Fned: I would like to have read blogs from when you first moved to Paris, too. It would have been sort of like your recent Japan blogs, with some in-depth observations.
Marissa: I’ll send you an email…we’re planning a girls “Sex and the City” viewing at Centro Maya on Wednesday.
Nancy: WOW, 5 usd per book?! Steep, but worth it, I suppose, when there are no alternatives. Even if there are English Language bookstores here, they are often jacked up in price, anyway, to cover the duty. I just can’t believe you get Amazon delivery!! What is Amate books? Is it located in Mexico? The door-to-door sales thing, that’s a good one! I do love that, except the knife-sharpening man only blows his whistle when I’m at work, never seems to come around near my house, which is too bad because I need him!
Susie: Oh, yes. The bugs and critters, another thing I’ve gotten totally used to. Geckos all over my house, scorpions, snakes.
June 8, 2008 at 6:24 pm
Heather, Amate books has English language books - they are in Oaxaca and Merida. I have ordered from them twice and it has gone very smoothly. Kind of frustrating website but take your time and you can usually find what you’re looking for.
They even have live people there who call you if you make a mistake and use your debit card by accident!
http://www.amatebooks.com
June 8, 2008 at 6:29 pm
Good post Heather!
Here in Cancun the houses (well my house at least) does not have a fosa septica. When we renovated our house we gained a good understanding of our sewer lines and they simply lead out to the street and meet the main sewer line that runs down the street, just like what would happen in the US. We DO FLUSH paper in our house. My husband is a licensed architect and studied Cancun’s sewer system when he was in college. He tells me that there’s no reason not to flush paper within the city here.
I pay my water bill ahead. I can’t stand the Aguakan lines (always out the door), so I go in an pay them $800 MXP once a year and that’s that.
For Telmex I always use the little kiosk atm-alike machine. Here in Cancun there’s not usually a line for the machines but there is a line to pay a person.
For CFE I’ve never once stood in line, I just use the machine, and it’s pretty well-designed and works fine.
One thing you didn’t mention in your post is that no one here will take a check. So you pay bills in person in cash or online via credit card, but you never write a check for your phone bill.
I don’t miss junk mail that’s for sure. But I really miss ordering stuff online.
June 8, 2008 at 11:02 pm
Oh yeah, the ants. So many different kinds, sizes and shapes of ants. My advice is to always get a refrigerator bigger than you think you need because of all the stuff you have to keep in it to keep the ants out. Like cold cereal, and vitamins, and opened packages of cookies.
I hear you on the turkey Heather, I bought an oven for the house in Merida but here at the beach… I think I can do without it and I would have a lot more counter space with just a 2 burner. For the microwave/convection, I think a concrete shelf.
June 9, 2008 at 11:30 am
Funny no one has mentioned the LAUNDRY issue *heavy suspenseful music*.
I had major panic attacks about the laundry. I had difficulty finding a do-your-own-laundry laundry mat, then when I did they charge by weight not by machine- so they don’t even let you put your own monedas in the machine, the machines I found to use certainly didn’t get my clothes clean (over recycled water? dunno.) so I found myself scrubbing by hand- I just couldn’t get over the idea of paying someone to do my laundry -it felt so high society or something.
I finally caved and paid to have my laundry done only to be infuriated by things being destroyed or MISSING! Why is it never the tank top from Chedraui that goes missing? Oh no, it’s always the favorite skirt from Old Navy! Arrgh!
I bought a used washing machine QUICKLY after moving here- it is right up there in my favorite possessions!
Funny how, now, so many of these things seem normal!! I swear if I went to a public restroom and there was a toilet seat I wouldn’t know what to do! I’d prolly lift it or something! hahaha!
June 16, 2008 at 8:34 am
After reading your post office experience it makes me not feel to complain about ours so much. At least we get mail here on Ambergris Caye and can shop on line. We have to go to the post office to get mail general delivery. The main issue we have is sometimes they scrutinize your packages and overcharge you to get them.
I agree with lisaloveloca on the laundry issue that is a big one for us here and I can’t wait for the day when we move into a place with a washing machine.
June 20, 2008 at 3:41 am
uarg, i hope that i won’t get those kind of problems, once i’m in mexico again. By that i mean flushing toilet paper…;)
adios
thomas